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Everything You Need To Know About Our Certified Chemical Peels



Certified Chemical Peels


If you are new to chemical peels, thank goodness you’ve come to the right place! In the world of chemicals - not all peels are created equal! Many are downright dangerous. Created in basements and mixed by personnel that are NOT engineers in a laboratory. Platinum Skin Care creates ONLY Certified Peels and At Home Peels. Each peel you purchase will come with documentation papers and package markings to match. Each safety sealed and guaranteed!

Now that we know you are in the best of hands, read this page and learn all about what acids you should be choosing and the percentages available to you. This page is loaded with information about chemical peels and how they can help your skins overall health and appearance. Should you have any questions or need additional information about chemical peels or choosing a peel that‘s right for your skin, a Platinum Skin Care Specialist is available at 1-800-917-3155 or 1-586-598-6094.


Chemical Peels As Anti Aging Skin Treatments, Acne treatment & Acne Scars

So, you're looking for anti aging skin tips or a solution that will help get rid of your acne for good? Great, you are in the right place! Or are you in need of an acne scar treatment that will finally, give your skin results with longevity? Chemical peels are a fantastic solution! Here’s how they work.

Chemical peels are acid solutions that have a significantly lower pH level than your skin's natural pH *which is usually around a 5.0pH. When used on your skin, a chemical peel has the ability to dissolve the gum that holds layers of dead skin buildup on your face. Within 3-5 days of using a peel, the separated dead skin dries and can begin the process of peeling off your face. This painless process allows new skin to regenerate. The new skin will be smoother and less wrinkled than the old skin and may be more even in color. Acids are used mainly for their anti-wrinkling effect.

With their usage the derma returns to have the thickness and sturdiness of that of a child. It stimulates the fibroblast, and therefore the collagen and elasticity that maintain the longevity of young and elastic skin. Another very popular use of acids are to help control acne and to treat acne scarring. Acids (salicylic is most common for this) will help to keep the dead skin at such a minimum that there is not enough to clog pores, resulting in much clearer skin.

To treat scarring, a TCA or Jessners acid peel is recommended.
There are occasions where the underlying skin is can be pigmented and this may come to the surface after a chemical peel. In most cases repeated peels will remove even the deeper layers of damaged skin. Keep in mind, using a chemical peel to get rid of acne, treat acne scars or achieve ageless skin requires repeated use; 6-8 treatments are recommended in a series. You may perform a few series per year. You should not have a chemical peel if you have excessive exposure to the sun as you will be more prone to sun damage without sufficient sun block.


Realistic Goals for Using Chemical Peels

A chemical peel can be successfully used as an anti aging treatment, to treat acne, repair sun damaged skin and mild acne scarring, reduce wrinkles and improve overall health and look of your skin. A chemical peel is not meant to be a solution to reduce appearance of blood vessels on the skin, change pore diameter even though the pores may actually appear less pronounced after treatment, or as an alternative to a face lift.


Understanding Strong Versus Weak Chemical Peels

It can be confusing comparing different acids and their percentages, this is because a low percentage in one acid can actually be a great deal stronger than a higher percentage in another acid. Below is a chart showing the approximate increase in strength between them. Even though these different types of acids are compared below, remember that everyone's skin is different and reacts differently. This chart can be used as a tool to help you decide what acid is best for your skin. And do not forget, we are here to help you if needed!


Weakest - Strongest
  1. 3% Salicylic
  2. 30% Glycolic, 50% Lactic, Mandelic Azelaic 22, and 13% TCA (at 1 layer)
  3. 50% Glycolic and 15% Salicylic
  4. 25% Salicylic
  5. 70% Glycolic
  6. 20% TCA (1 layer) and Jessners (at 1-2 layers)
  7. 30% TCA


Chemical Peels Options by Skin Type
Glycolic acid is probably the most widely recognized chemical peeling acid. It is a great "general" type of acid. It is water soluble, and works nicely on most skin types to accelerate the turnover of skin cells, remove lesions, restore steadiness, elasticity and can help to improve the "true" moisturizing characteristics of the skin. But, just because it is the most popular, it does not mean it is the best acid for YOUR skin. Please see our intuitive chart below to see which acid will work best with your issues.

Lactic 50 Peel
DRY skin/aging/pigmented skin types. Can be used on a weekly basis for moisturization. Expect very light peeling - no visible flakes 2-3 days post peel. (2.5pH)
Jessners Peel
Cystic acne and extensive damage. This peel is good for those with all grades of acne. It will remain on the skin for approximately 4 hours. Expect peeling 2-3 days post peel.
Mandelaic Azelaic Peel
All skin types/sensitive skin*, fine lines, pigmentation, acne, dermal melasma, acne-rosacea, low irritation. Excellent for all types of skin - including teens. Expect light flaking and/or dry skin 2-3 days post peel.
Glycolic 30 Peel
Normal skin/sensitive skin*, fine lines, previous glycolic usage without any irritation. Water soluble and good for all types. Expect light flaking and/or dry skin 2-3 days post peel. (2.1pH)
Glycolic 50 Peel
Normal/acne/aging skin , used 30% glycolic peels previously and are looking for more action. Expect light flakes and/or dry skin 2-3 days post peel. (2.1pH)
Glycolic 70 Peel
For Body usage and professional applications. (pH 0.6) *Can be adjusted to a lower percentage (20-60) for those who have progressed through the buffered peels and are looking for a more aggressive peel.
Salicylic 3 Mini Peel
Problematic acne. Oily, acne prone skin. This mini peel can be used 1-3 times per week for teens and adults, or it can be used for those with extreme acne conditions as a daily toner.
Salicylic 15 Peel
Heavily clogged pores. Oily, acne prone skin. Oil soluble acid that searches out clogged pores. Excellent choice for anyone with acne. Salicylic is a stronger acid and will have more irritation than the glycolic/mandelic/lactic options. Expect light-medium flaking and/or dry skin 2-3 days post peel.
Salicylic 25 Peel
Step 2 product from the Salicylic 15.
TCA 13 Peel
Damaged skin. Hyperpigmentation, sun damage and pre-cancerous lesions, acne, medium-depth lines, lip creases, freckling ... TCA is applied in multiple layers. Begin with 1 layer and work up to 3-5 layers before moving up to a higher percentage. 12.5% - Milder - beginners and sensitive skin (1 layer)
TCA 20 Peel
Only advance to the 20 peel once your skin has acclimated to 5 layers of the 12.5 peel. Or you may use this percentage on body pigmentation, acne, and pitted scaring.
TCA 30 Peel
30% - Professional (1 layer). Diluted percentages eq. to scales above. This may be a good option if you have the need for several different percentages. Treating scarring with one percentage, full face with another percentage, and body with another. Never apply 30% full-strength unless you are performing a TCA CROSS peel inside a pick scar, or you are trying to remove a tag or other issue.






Important Information About TCA and Jessner (Medium Depth) Chemical Peels

You should not have a TCA or Jessner chemical peel if you will continue to have excessive exposure to the sun, have an active Herpes lesion, Warts, history of Keloidal scarring, any type of recent facial surgical procedures, used Accutane in the last year (it will increase your chances of scarring), if you’re pregnant, lactating, have an aspirin allergy (Jessners), any auto immune diseases, prior peel sensitivities, sebhorrehic dermatitis, collagen disease, atopics, eczema (et. Al.), have had any recent radioactive or Chemotherapy treatments, sunburn, windburn, broken skin or have recently waxed or have recently used a depilatory such as Nair or use Vaniqua. TCA may produce some unintended color changes in the skin. This may be prevented by using a bleaching cream 2-3 weeks prior to treatment and usually occurs with darker skin. We highly suggest the Fade Bright if you have darker skin.


TCA tips
  • The volume of solution applied to the skin will determine the depth of the peel. Too much solution in an area will provide a deeper than desired peel. Best application method:
    • Fold gauze pad in half. Dip into solution and saturate pad. Fold in half again and give one good squeeze to remove excess solution. Unfold and apply.
  • Peeling the neck and chest is possible with TCA but should be applied with the lowest percentage acid (13%) and in a very light fashion.
  • TCA can not be neutralized. Always wait a few extra minutes in between layers if any frosting is apparent to see if you should continue. Only apply next layer to areas without a frost.


Understanding Layers (Jessners & TCA)



TCA
TCA gets its strength from being applied in multiple layers. A layer is a single application of the acid during a peel treatment. Multiple layers will be applied to progress the peel deeper into the skin – without washing off any previous layers. The first layer is applied (approximately a 3-5 minute time frame) - the proteins in the skin coagulate, then the peel self-neutralizes. Then the second layer is applied directly on top of the first. It will go through the first layer and coagulate the layer below (another 3-5 minutes) then self-neutralize. This process generally goes 2-5 layers. The end point of a TCA peel is generally when a frost is achieved. Always stop applying solution if there is a white haze on any area of the face. You may continue with unfrosted areas only.

** If you have never had a TCA peel before, we suggest applying only 1 layer the first time you perform the peel. You can then strengthen the peel with additional layers as you move forward in the process. We suggest the 13% for beginners and those with sensitive skin.

**For reference - the Obaji Blue Peel is either a 15% or 20% (doctor's preference/patient's skin) TCA solution applied in 3-5 layers in a doctor's office.


Jessners
Jessners is also commonly applied in multiple layers in a professional setting. The same information applies as above. *Due to the fact that Jessners is such a strong peel, Platinum Skin Care does not recommend applying more than 1 layer the first time the acid is used, and never more than 5 layers. *You will judge when to stop applying layers by achieving a frost on the skin.


Preparing for a Chemical Peel
For the best results with any chemical peel, you should first follow a skin care regimen which may include the use of AHAs, Retin A, Kojic Acid, Alpha Arbutin, etc. to prepare your skin’s surface, and even out the skin tone itself. *EX- Retinol .10% (or Serum 15%) and Vitamin C Complex daily. If you have pigmentation you should implement the Fade-Bright as well. This will make the peel more effective and will make your skin less likely you hyper-pigment. * Make sure you have a supply of SPF (100% uva & uvb) to protect your skin before and after the peel. A minimum of 25 is required.

TCA may produce some unintended color changes in the skin. This may be prevented by using a bleaching cream 2-3 weeks prior to treatment and usually occurs with darker skin. We highly suggest the Fade-Bright if you have naturally pigmented skin or you are prone to pigmentation.


Recovery after medium-depth chemical peeling
There should be no discomfort following the procedure. You will wash your face twice daily with a gentle cleanser and apply a moisturizing ointment (as mentioned above). With a high % of TCA, your face can initially appear red. Within a few days, your stratum corneum (outermost layers of skin) will turn darker, and prepare to peel. The flaking is usually complete in four to seven days. Once your skin has finished peeling, you may begin wearing makeup. You should resume skin care within two weeks of your procedure. Any post "flushed" appearance will fade slowly over several weeks.


Duration of Results
Most people will be able to continually see the results of their TCA peels for 6 months - two years. If you use professional collagen inducing, exfoliating skin care products regularly after your peel, you will maximize the duration of improvement. Most people opt to perform 1-3 more TCA peels throughout the year to keep everything looking fresh.


What is the Quality of Our Peel?
Our TCA is a Reagent Grade (ACS). This is the highest purity level that can be attained. It meets the standards of ACS Reagent Chemicals, Current Edition. Reagent grade chemicals are high quality and purity for laboratory use. The American Chemical Society Committee on Analytical Reagents establishes the standards for reagent chemicals. All of our peels are created inside of an FDA registered laboratory.

Again, this is about quality and safety for our clients.

After your peel it will be important to moisturize your skin with a quality, healing ointment. We recommend Emu oil mixed with Copper Serum, Regenerate Epidermal Growth Factor, Bacitracin, or another comparable product.


How Economical are Platinum Skin Care Home Peels?
Here's how we figure how many peels you will get from each bottle. There are 456 drops per each 1oz. bottle, Therefore ...
  • 1/2 oz. = 228 drops (20 drops per peel) or 10 peels per bottle!
  • 1oz. = 456 drops (20 drops per peel) or 20 peels per bottle!
  • 2oz. = 912 drops (20 drops per peel) or 40 peels per bottle!


*It is important to understand that a single treatment, be it laser, microdermabrasion or a chemical peel, is not enough to keep skin clear and younger looking. As any reputable skin care expert will tell you, a daily program is the key to consistent, clearer, younger looking skin.

Skin Types (Based on Fitzpatrick Classification)
Type I
Never tans, always burns (extremely fair skin, blonde hair, blue/green eyes)
Type II
Occasionally tans, usually burns (fair skin, sandy to brown hair, green/brown eyes)
Type III
Tans on average, sometimes burns (medium skin, brown hair, brown eyes)
Type IV
Usually tans, rarely burns (olive skin, brown/black hair, dark brown/black eyes)
Type V
Mostly tans, almost never burns (dark brown skin, black hair, black eyes)
Type VI
Never burns (black skin, black hair, black eyes)
The best candidates for chemical peels are the light skin types 1, 2, and 3, which have less chance for such complications as hyper (dark spots) and hypo (light spots) pigmentation and scarring. Although skin types 5 and 6 are not ideal for peels, they can be peeled using such superficial agents as salicylic acid or a low percentage glycolic acid such as 30% or 40%.

The ideal peel for darker skinned individuals would be the TCA peel. TCA has proven to be the "safest" acid (regarding to causing hyper/hypo pigmentation) over the other types. Never apply a Jessners peel on pigmented or dark skin types without PRE-treating the skin with Fade Bright for at least 2 weeks or more.

The Difference Between Home and Dr. Peels
We know that you want to know the real difference between "home peels" (or buffered peels) and "Doctor's office" peels. Well, here it is! PH levels are the biggest factor! The lower the pH level, the deeper and more quickly a peel will penetrate into your skin. The following chart is a comparison of the pH levels of our glycolic acid home peels (*our pH levels are lower than most companies) with those of an unbuffered type (doctors utilize these most). We want you to know what the difference is and most important WHY it is so.

Point to be made here! Not all doctors use the lower levels shown below. Many use the same pH levels that we carry and only find they need to use the lower pH levels on people with severely damaged skin.

Doctor's office
Platinum Home peels
30% pH 1.8
30% pH 2.1*
50% pH 1.4
50% pH 2.1*
70% pH 0.6
70% pH 0.6*


The difference does not seem very great, looking at the close proximity of the numbers, but it is important to realize that a pH of 1.0 is actually 10X stronger than a pH of 2.0! Big difference in strength.


There are the levels..now why the difference? SAFETY...SAFETY...SAFETY!
Of course there are those of you who have been having peels done, or doing them at home for years, and you feel quite comfortable with a lower pH level. But, for most beginners, the adjusted pH levels (or buffered peels) are the safest option.

When you are at a doctor's office there are professionals who are constantly monitoring your skin for eurythma, frosting and any other telltale signs that the acid may need to be neutralized, or the peel could progress too deeply. When you are in the privacy of your own home you do not have a professional standing by making sure that you do not damage your skin. Chemical peels are acids and they can harm you if you are not careful. Our pH levels are 1.0 higher to give you the extra time (SAFETY) you need!

  • Yes, you can leave it on a few minutes longer.
  • Yes, you do need that extra time.
  • It just is not worth the few minutes that you save.
  • This is your face! We care about it and do not want it damaged!


If you feel you need a deeper peel than ours - - PLEASE have a physician/esthetician perform it for you! Of course you can purchase the unbuffered versions (Jessners/TCA/Glycolic 70%) but please use extreme caution and dilute them if necessary (dilution percentages are with all direction sheets). Come visit our facility in Clinton Township, Michigan when you are in town. We would love to perform a chemical peel for you.