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Home > Chemical Facial Peeling Info
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We have designated this page to be our facial peeling "know-it-all" extravaganza! You will find everything you need to know about picking the right acid for the job, to what is possible with this method of skin restoration. Enjoy and learn! Feel free to call us in the office if you have any further questions that have not been answered on this page - or the website. We enjoy being there for you.
You will find general information about all peels (light and medium) at the uppermost portion of this page highlighed in green. There will be additional information regarding medium peels towards the bottom of the page. You can look for the different colored higlights to find the medium information more quickly.
All peels (Glycolic 30%-70%, Salicylic 3%-25%, Lactic 50%, TCA, Jessners)
Medium peels (TCA, 70% Glycolic & Jessners)
What are chemical peels and what can they do for me?
Chemical peels are great for use as anti aging treatments, acne treatments, scar treatments and also to refreshen the skin periodically. It is healthy and necessary to exfoliate your skin on a regular basis to promote new regeneration - especially due to the fact that as we age this process naturally slows down. Chemical peels are comprised of an active acid solution that is set at a substantially lower pH level than your skin's natural pH. It is applied to the skin, and while it is working basically "eats away" the buildup of "glue" which holds the outermost, dead layers of skin to your face. After the acid separates the dead skin, in a matter of 3-5 days it will begin to peel off and allow new skin to regenerate. The new skin is smoother and less wrinkled than the old skin, and may also be more even in color. *There are occasions where the underlying skin is also pigmented, and this may come to the surface after a chemical peel. In most cases repeated peels will remove even the deeper layers of damages. Thus, peeling is a "process" and not just a "one-time-event". A general recommendation is 6-8 treatments. You should not have a chemical peel if you will continue to have excessive sun exposure. The outermost layers will be thinned and you will be more prone to sundamages without adequate sunblock.
Chemical peels (Glycolic, Lactic, Salicylic, Jessners, TCA, and others...) can be used for improving the penetration of substances through the derma. Therefore, when we exfoliate the outermost layers of dead skin, our topical products will penetrate and actually do what they are supposed to do! No more just sitting on top and plumping the dead tissues.
Acids are used mainly for their anti-wrinkling effect. With their usage the derma returns to have the thickness and sturdiness of that of a child. It stimulates the fibroblast, and therefore the collagen and elastin that maintain the young and elastic skin. But, another very popular usage of these acids is to help control acne and to treat acne scarring. The acids (salicylic is most common for this) will help to keep the dead skin at such a minimum that there is not enough to clog pores - thus resulting in much clearer skin. To treat scarring (breaking down scar tissues and promoting new "normal" tissue to take its place) we recommend the TCA or Jessners acids followed by the copper products.
Realistic goals
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Chemical peels can correct actinic (sun) damage.
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They can reduce mild scarring.
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You can experience a reduction or eradication of your wrinkles.
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Improvement of dark skin discoloration is possible.
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Chemical peels can remove excessive / stubborn blackheads.
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The peel may temporarily reduce excessive skin oils.
Unrealistic goals
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It cannot remove or reduce the appearance of blood vessels on the skin.
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It is impossible to truly change pore diameter. However, by removing blackheads, the pores may actually appear less pronounced after treatment.
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This is not a procedure to get rid of keloidal types of scars.
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Chemical peels are not a facelift.
Preparing for Your Chemical Peel
For the best results with any chemical peel, you should first follow a skin care regimen which may include the use of AHAs, Retin A, Kojic Acid, Alpha Arbutin, etc. to prepare your skin’s surface, and even out the skin tone itself. *EX- Retinol .10% (or Serum 15%) and Vitamin C Complex daily. If you have pigmentation you should implement the Fading Gel as well. This will make the peel more effective and will make your skin less likely you hyper-pigment. * Make sure you have a supply of SPF (100% uva & uvb) to protect your skin before and after the peel. A minimum of 25 is required.
TCA may produce some unintended color changes in the skin. This may be prevented by using a bleaching cream 2-3 weeks prior to treatment and usually occurs with darker skin. We highly suggest the Fading Gel if you have darker skin.
What acid should I use?
Glycolic acid is probably the most widely recognized chemical peeling acid. It is a great "general" type of acid. It is water soluble, and works nicely on most skin types to accelerate the turnover of skin cells, remove lesions, restore steadiness, elasticity and can help to improve the "true" moisturizing characteristics of the skin. But, just because it is the most popular, it does not mean it is the best acid for YOUR skin. Please see our intuitive chart below to see which acid will work best with your issues.
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50% Lactic peel |
DRY skin/aging/pigmented skin types. Can be used on a weekly basis for moisturization. (2.5pH)
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Jessners Peel |
Cystic acne and extensive damage. This peel will cause frosting almost immediately upon application and will provide you with much peeling.
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30% Glycolic peel |
Normal skin/sensitive skin*, fine lines, previous glycolic usage without any irritation. (2.1pH)
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40% Glycolic peel |
Normal skin, used 30% glycolic peels previously SEVERAL TIMES! (2.1pH)
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50% Glycolic peel |
Normal/acne/aging skin , used 40% glycolic peels previously SEVERAL TIMES! (2.1pH)
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60% Glycolic peel |
Normal/aging skin , used 50% glycolic peels previously SEVERAL TIMES! (2.1pH)
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70% Glycolic peel *Adjustable % |
For Body usage and professional applications. (pH 0.6) *Can be adjusted to a lower percentage (20-60) for those who have progressed through the buffered peels and are looking for a more aggressive peel.
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Salicylic 3%/15%/25% |
Heavily clogged pores. Oily, acne prone skin. Begin with 15% salicylic before you advance to 25%.
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Bi-Phasic |
All non-sensitive skin types. Salicylic pre-peel with a glycolic peel. Glycolic users in search of a deeper peel.
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TCA 12.5%/20%/30% |
Damaged skin. Hyperpigmentation, sun damage and pre-cancerous lesions, acne, medium-depth lines, lip creases, freckling ... TCA is applied in multiple layers. Begin with 1 layer and work up to 3-5 layers before moving up to a higher percentage.
12.5% - Milder - beginers and sensitive skin (1 layer)
20% - Advanced (3-5 layers eq. to Obaji)
30% - Professional (1 layer). Diluted percentages eq. to scale above.
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Important Contraindications of Medium Depth Chemical Peels
(TCA/Jessners)
You should not have a chemical peel if you will continue to have excessive sun exposure. Active Herpes Simplex (have a doctor prescribe Zovirax for you), Warts, history of Keloidal scarring, Any type of recent facial surgical procedures. You should not have a chemical peel if you've used Accutane in the last year (it will increase your chances of scarring), or if you are pregnant or lactating or have an aspirin allergy (Jessners)! If you have any auto immune diseases, prior peel sensitivities, sebhorrehic dermatitis, collagen disease, atopics, eczema (et. Al.), have had any recent radioactive or Chemotherapy treatments - have sunburn, windburn or broken skin or have recently waxed or have recently used a depilatory such as Nair or use Vaniqua. TCA may produce some unintended color changes in the skin. This may be prevented by using a bleaching cream 2-3 weeks prior to treatment and usually occurs with darker skin. We highly suggest the Fading Gel if you have darker skin.
Understanding Layers (Jessners & TCA)
TCA gets its strength from being applied in multiple layers. A layer is a single application of the acid during a peel treatment. Multiple layers will be applied to progress the peel deeper into the skin – without washing off any previous layers. The first layer is applied (approximately a 3-5 minute time frame) - the proteins in the skin coagulate, then the peel self-neutralizes. Then the second layer is applied directly on top of the first. It will go through the first layer and coagulate the layer below (another 3-5 minutes) then self-neutralize. This process generally goes 2-5 layers.** If you have never had a TCA peel before, we suggest applying only 1 layer the first time you perform the peel. You can then strengthen the peel with additional layers as you move forward in the process. We suggest the 12.5% for beginners and those with sensitive skin. **For reference - the Obaji Blue Peel is either a 15% or 20% (doctor's preference/patient's skin) TCA solution applied in 3-5 layers in a doctor's office.
Jessners is also commonly applied in multiple layers in a professional setting. The same information applies as above. *Due to the fact that Jessners is such a strong peel, Platinum Skin Care does not recommend applying more than 1 layer the first few times the acid is used, and never more than 2 layers.
Recovery after medium-depth chemical peeling
There should be no discomfort following the procedure. You will wash your face twice daily with a gentle cleanser and apply a moisturizing ointment (as mentioned above). With a high % of TCA, your face will initially appear red. Within a few days, your stratum corneum (outermost layers of skin) will turn darker, and prepare to peel. The flaking is usually complete in four to seven days. Once your skin has finished peeling, you may begin wearing makeup. You should resume skin care within two weeks of your procedure. Any post "flushed" appearance will fade slowly over several weeks.
Duration of Results
Most people will be able to continually see the results of their TCA peels for 6 months - two years. If you use professional collagen inducing, exfoliating skin care products regularly after your peel, you will maximize the duration of improvement. Most people opt to perform 1-3 more TCA peels throughout the year to keep everything looking fresh.
What is the Quality of Our Peel?
Our TCA is a Reagent Grade (ACS). This is the highest purity level that can be attained. It meets the standards of ACS Reagent Chemicals, Current Edition. Reagent grade chemicals are high quality and purity for laboratory use. The American Chemical Society Committee on Analytical Reagents establishes the standards for reagent chemicals. All of our peels are created inside of an FDA registered laboratory.
Helping your skin to heal
After your peel it will be important to moisturize your skin with a quality, healing ointment. We recommend Emu oil mixed with Copper Serum, Bacitracin, or another comparable product.
Are Platinum's peels economical? ... You bet!!!
How many peels will I get from my bottle? We can figure this out quite easily by knowing how many drops per ounce. There are 456 drops per each 1oz. bottle, Therefore ...
*It is important to understand that a single treatment, be it laser, microdermabrasion or a chemical peel, is not enough to keep skin clear and younger looking. As any reputable skin care expert will tell you, a daily program is the key to consistent, clearer, younger looking skin.
Skin Types
(Based on Fitzpatrick Classification) |
| Type I |
Never tans, always burns (extremely fair skin, blonde hair, blue/green eyes) |
| Type II |
Occasionally tans, usually burns (fair skin, sandy to brown hair, green/brown eyes) |
| Type III |
Tans on average, sometimes burns (medium skin, brown hair, brown eyes) |
| Type IV |
Usually tans, rarely burns (olive skin, brown/black hair, dark brown/black eyes) |
| Type V |
Mostly tans, almost never burns (dark brown skin, black hair, black eyes) |
| Type VI |
Never burns (black skin, black hair, black eyes) |
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The best candidates for chemical peels are the light skin types 1, 2, and 3, which have less chance for such complications as hyper (dark spots) and hypo (light spots) pigmentation and scarring. Although skin types 5 and 6 are not ideal for peels, they can be peeled using such superficial agents as salicylic acid or a low percentage glycolic acid such as 30% or 40%. The ideal peel for darker skinned individuals would be the TCA peel. TCA has proven to be the "safest" acid (regarding to causing hyper/hypo pigmentation) over the other types. Never apply a Jessners peel on pigmented or dark skin types. |
The Real Difference Between Home and Dr Peels
We know that you want to know the real difference between "home peels" (or buffered peels) and "Doctor's office" peels. Well, here it is!
PH levels are the biggest factor! The lower the pH level, the deeper and more quickly a peel will penetrate into your skin. The following chart is a comparison of the pH levels of our glycolic acid home peels (*our pH levels are lower than most companies) with those of an unbuffered type (doctors utilize these most). We want you to know what the difference is and most important WHY it is so.
Point to be made here! Not all doctors use the lower levels shown below. Many use the same pH levels that we carry and only find they need to use the lower pH levels on people with severely damaged skin.
| Doctor's office |
Platinum Home peels |
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30% pH 1.8 |
30% pH 2.1* |
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40% pH 1.6 |
40% pH 2.1* |
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50% pH 1.4 |
50% pH 2.1* |
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60% pH 1.1 |
60% pH 2.1* |
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70% pH 0.6 |
70% pH 0.6* |
The difference does not seem very great, looking at the close proximity of the numbers, but it is important to realize that a pH of 1.0 is actually 10X stronger than a pH of 2.0! Big difference in strength. |
There are the levels..now why the difference? SAFETY...SAFETY...SAFETY!
Of course there are those of you who have been having peels done, or doing them at home for years, and you feel quite comfortable with a lower pH level. But, for most beginners, the adjusted pH levels (or buffered peels) are the safest option.
When you are at a doctor's office there are professionals who are constantly monitoring your skin for eurythma, frosting and any other telltale signs that the acid may need to be neutralized, or the peel could progress too deeply. When you are in the privacy of your own home you do not have a professional standing by making sure that you do not damage your skin. Chemical peels are acids and they can harm you if you are not careful. Our pH levels are 1.0 higher to give you the extra time (SAFETY) you need!
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Yes, you can leave it on a few minutes longer.
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Yes, you do need that extra time.
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It just is not worth the few minutes that you save.
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This is your face! We care about it and do not want it damaged!
If you feel you need a deeper peel than ours - - PLEASE have a physician/esthetician perform it for you! Of course you can purchase the unbuffered versions (Jessners/TCA/Glycolic 70%) but please use extreme caution and dilute them if necessary (dilution percentages are with all direction sheets). Come visit our medical spa in Chesterfield, Michigan when you are in town. We would love to perform a chemical peel for you. You can visit our site at www.platinum-medispa.com
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