How to Introduce Powerful Skin Care Products (Without Getting Irritated)
We all want fast results, but with professional strength skincare, faster isn't always better. If you've ever started a new product like retinol, acids, or a peel, and your skin freaked out, this episode is for you.
Today we're talking about how to introduce actives the right way, using a gradual approach that builds tolerance, avoids irritation, and actually gets better results in the long run.
Whether you're starting your first peel or adding in a retinoid, I'll walk you through exactly how to ease in without overwhelming your skin.
Let's talk about why strong products need to be introduced to your regimen on a nice, slow basis.
Yeah, good topic of conversation, because we always have new customers.
Yes.
Every day.
For sure.
Dozens and dozens and dozens of new customers every single day, and we're always talking about our regimen, right? We want you to use the proper products to prepare your skin, and then you continue using them. We have things like our acid cleansers, antioxidants, moisturizer, SPF, retinoids at night, and some of these things can be drying, irritating, very strong, could cause sensitizing of the skin, so as much as you want to get started and use everything on day one, you really, really shouldn't.
When you mix multiple products at once, it's tough to gauge whether you're getting sensitive to a particular product.
On a side note of that, you know, people who have acne, same thing, you shouldn't introduce a whole bunch of products at once, because in five weeks, if you have, like, you know, a big breakout, well, you just don't know which one caused it.
Yeah. For sure.
For someone like that, I would suggest an even slower introduction, but none of the products we'll discuss today are going to cause acne. They will help to speed up the turnover of your skin, which can release clogged pores, but they're not going to cause it.
So yeah, I think it's really important to stress that, you know, products like this, if you've never used an acid on a daily basis, yeah, acids cause dryness. They cause that skin to be released, and it's going to flake off gently.
So even just the simplest thing, like our cleanser. So, you know, here's our Revitalizing Cleanser. This is a glycolic one, which has 10% in here. 10% is a lot, you know.
Yeah, it really is.
If you go to the store and you might find a hydroxy acid cleanser with a blend or something. I guarantee you're not even going to see a percentage because it's usually under 1%, or at most 5%.
So 10%, even though this isn't sitting on your skin, it's going to cause dryness. It's going to cause dryness for, I tell people, one to two weeks, right? So you start using this, and the first time you wash, you're amazed at how smooth and soft your skin is. But over the next few days, you're going to be using this, all of a sudden, your skin's going to feel dry and kind of, eh.
So should they use it only once per day to start versus twice?
I would say, you know, especially if you're sensitive, yes.
On the sensitive side, I would think so.
Sensitive side, once per day. I think you could probably start at twice per day for normal skin. If you feel irritated in any way, shape, or form, obviously cut back to one time per day. But I feel like most people are okay twice a day.
If you're not and you're already using like a cleanser for sensitive skin, you know, this isn't the only cleanser. Now, if you are more sensitive, use the anti-aging cleanser, right? That has 5% lactic. That's more moisturizing for your skin.
You're still going to get dry, but not as dry as this one. This is more for normal skin. Then, of course, we have our AB Cleanser, designed for oily acne skin.
And then we have the Basics 3-in-1, which is also 10% acid. It's just Mandelic. So no matter what, all of these are going to cause dryness. There's no question.
And I always kind of tell people, like, this is a good thing. This is why you're using it. You've chosen to use an acid cleanser to remove dead skin.
So what is happening when they do experience that redness and flaking? What's happening beneath the skin?
Well, you know how acid works. It dissolves the bonds that hold the layers of dead skin to your face. And they don't just, you know, fall off instantly. Even with a chemical peel, it doesn't just fall off. It takes a matter of days, right?
So, a few days after using this for the first time, your skin starts to feel dry. And, you know, let it do its course. I tend to tell people, you know, if you're not using a washcloth, if you're only using your fingers, I don't feel like that's enough.
At least once per day, you should be using a washcloth. So you can get some buffing, remove dead skin, and help it come off. Or I also like to use the little round pads. One side has a net, and the other side is like a washcloth.
I like to use that once a day, for sure. I generally like to use it in the morning. But that is super. I put it on, get it wet, apply cleanser to my face, and gently go across my face to remove the dead skin.
That's what we want. We want to use this to remove the dead skin, get your layers nice and even. So if you're going to do a peel later, now your skin is nice and even.
So that acid's going to take more evenly to your skin if you're well-exfoliated.
Yeah, you don't want thick layers and thin layers. And we don't want you to do that with scrubbing appliances, really. Because, you know, people tend to be more aggressive on some regions of their face and other areas they don't tackle as much. So the skin isn't even.
We need a chemical exfoliation. I mean, you need to use like an acid where it's not going to work harder on your cheeks than it is down here and on your forehead. It's going to do the same thing evenly all over.
You're going to have an excellent base for your future products, the treatments that you have coming up.
Let's talk about pre-treatment for chemical peels. And one of the main pre-treatment products is Fade Bright.
Yes.
So Fade Bright is one of those that can cause some sensitivity.
Yes.
Actually, one of our customer representatives just took a phone call before we started recording the podcast. And there's a customer who is prepping for a peel. She's new to our products.
She got her Fade Bright. She used it daily for four days, and she feels like she's having an allergic reaction. Our representative advised her to email support, send some photos. My immediate thought was it's too much too soon.
Too much too soon. Because, you know, there are acids in here. There's a retinoid in here. Just, you know, either one of those could cause sensitivity in your skin.
Yeah.
Let alone both of them, you know, this has hydroxyponacolone retinoate, which is the granactive retinoid. And that is the ester of tretinoin. So it feels nice and non-irritating on your skin. It's like it's a very gentle feeling retinoid.
But still, any retinoid can cause sensitivity and irritation. And you need to continuously introduce retinoids two to three times per week at first. Some people even less. Some people might have to do it, you know, one day a week.
Correct.
Two days a week. You know your skin. Or you're going to learn very quickly.
Yeah.
Not to do this four days in a row.
Sure.
And she probably is using other products in the regimen too.
Probably.
If you started using this acid cleanser, then Fade Bright twice a day.
Yeah.
You're going to be really sorry.
Sure, sure. When I get her email, I will send her a nice reply. Usually, I will check what she's ordered first to see what else was in her package.
What else could be causing this?
What else could be causing it? So I will more than likely tell her to stop using it for a few days. Use some healing and soothing products to help normalize her skin again. And then start back up, maybe once a day, every other day to see how that goes.
Yeah. And there are other ways. Like, let's say you're really, really sensitive to retinoids. Even with this gentle retinoid, there are ways to make it less potent.
If you're one of those people who are just so, so sensitive. If you put a pump of this on your skin full strength, we're getting the full strength of this.
Well, let's say you take a pump of this and mix a pump of your Derma Snap cream. Well, now you've, you know, cut that percentage in half. So if you are super, super sensitive, that is another way to ease into it.
Very great advice.
Yeah. But, you know, this one is going to cause, so what is Fade Bright? Because of the retinoids and it causes your skin to turn over more quickly. Also, it has the inhibition ingredient alpha arbutin, which we believe is one of the very best to use if you're prepping for an appeal.
And hydroquinone is another one. So you don't always have to use our Fade Bright. I always want to stress that. Many people have a hydroquinone prescription. Perfectly fine. You only need one. You do not need both.
Choose one, but you know, you have to cycle with hydroquinone. So on your off times, this is the perfect product.
So the gradual approach?
Gradual.
I think that's a good reason why we tell them four weeks to use that Fade Bright before a TCA or Jessner peel, because it could take them a couple of weeks to reach a point where their skin is comfortable using it daily.
Yeah. When we talk about our whole prepping regimen, I definitely want to stress four weeks because unless you're already using every single aspect that you need in your daily regimen, and your skin's already prepped fine.
Right.
But if you're not and you're starting, as I mentioned, it could take two weeks for this cleanser to feel comfortable on you. Then you're adding in other things.
Maybe your Fade Bright or, you know, let's say you're using Serum 15, all of those have to be started very slowly.
And of course, retinoid. Now, there is a retinoid and Fade Bright, yes. Do, do I feel like this is strong enough for 100% for everybody?
No, I still feel like you should be using a straight retinoid. I mean, this is definitely stronger than this far, far stronger, higher percentages.
Let's talk about Fusion A.
And this is another one, you know, obviously, like I'm saying, this is stronger than this.
Yes, it is.
This is going to be a slow starter as well. I usually tell people to use this no more than two, maybe three times a week. If you read the directions, it tells you to apply one to two pumps of serum to your face and neck after washing your skin. You know, dryness and sensitivity may occur. Stop use and cut back. Warning. Retinoids should be started gradually. Use this product one to three times per week and on more days as your skin acclimates.
Alternatively, for very sensitive types, you may dilute the Fusion A by mixing it with another serum or cream and applying both together, as I mentioned with Fade Bright.
For example, if you want to use it for four, five, or six days, but it's too strong, you may need to adjust the dosage. 0.15 is too strong. Well, if you mix it with another cream, you know, a pump of this, a pump of this. Now you've just cut it in half, and maybe you can use it every day now.
So, you know, and I don't expect anyone to memorize that, which is why I'm reading this right off of the box that everybody gets. It's right here. You don't have to remember what I'm saying. If you forget how many days, it's right here.
But the same thing applies. This could take three, four weeks for you to acclimate to. So we want you to take your time with these products.
And it's essential to choose the correct percentage as well.
Yeah.
The 0.15 is where they should start if they're new to retinoids.
Pretty much, yes.
Definitely, and still take the slow, gradual approach.
And there's the quiz on the website too. On the Fusion A page, you will find the information. And we do have stronger Fusion A. We have the 0.15, 0.25, and 0.35 on one page.
Right.
Then we have our 0.55 Luminosity, which is not on that page. And it's not on that page for a reason, because I know how people are. They always want to get the strongest one available.
Yeah.
And they end up choosing something too strong, and then they're sorry and wish they could go back. So I didn't want to put it on that same page. I want it on a separate page. So if you are a maximalist, if you pick the 0.35, you're going to have a better chance at least…
Yes.
…of using that one than you ever would have the 0.55. But there are four percentages to choose from.
If you're coming from a prescription retinoid use, yeah, you might be able to use that. You know, when you're just kind of like, “I'm tired of that. I want to use some different forms of vitamin A.” You can do that.
A good point to make for someone new to our line is the fact that our products are very action-packed.
Yes.
With a lot of actives. We put a lot of active ingredients. The maximum amount that, you know, the formula can stably hold.
Yes.
So, you know, less is more a lot of times.
It is. And that's why it's okay to mix and apply many of the products we offer. It's not like, you know, people worry about, yes, you're diluting it. But it's in such a high percentage. Often, it's perfectly fine.
I mix things all the time. We want to go and order serums, then creams and oils, then SPF. If I have, you know, three serums, I'm like, pump, pump, pump, mix, put it on. I'm not going to sit there and do one layer and wait and do another.
No, no, no, no, no. Pump, pump, pump, apply. Oh, cream, cream, apply.
Yes.
You know, whatever. They're still going to work.
I get that question.
See, they still work.
Yes, they do. I get the question a lot. How long to wait in between each, you know, layer that they're putting on or each product, let's say they're putting on some Dr. Platinum potions and then they're putting on, you know, Fade Bright or vice versa, what have you. You see, they really get kind of stuck because they think there's, you know, a golden rule about how long they should wait.
Yeah, and I like it when you put things on immediately because the number one thing is, you know, you wash your face. You want to start putting products on within like a minute because we don't want to let that water evaporate away. We want to keep that water in the skin. So you just barely pat your skin dry and start right away with any products.
So if you have, well, water-based products generally first. If you have alcohol, you know, maybe like a toner or something that might dry out a little bit, so don't use toners or things like that unless you absolutely have to.
Yeah.
But get too busy immediately with your first product, which is like, let's say, Fade Bright, put that on immediately. Let's keep the moisture in there. Let's keep going. Get any other water-based theorems on quickly, and don't wait, as if it's okay if they're still wet.
I find that things like smooth further and easier when you still have a little bit of play with the layer that was just put on previously. And then, by the time you're applying your creams with SPF, some people have trouble if they wait too long once everything is dry. Then, the SPF is like. It's like so hard to get on.
So, when I'm done putting my cream on or oils or whatever, I get that SPF immediately and start rubbing it in there. And then it goes on so nicely. But if you like to wait, then it feels like SPF can be cakey.
And I just feel like next, next, next, next, next. Don't let your skin dry. Keep that moisture in there. And if for, you know, for some reason, you like to wait, that's okay. But I would suggest maybe misting your skin.
I mean, I've heard of some people. I just answered an email this morning where they were saying that they went like 30 minutes, they put their Tretinoin on, waited 30 minutes, and then they put their serums and creams on.
I'm like, “Well, that's a long time.” I would like to dampen my skin before I start, you know, putting those products on, because the whole goal of layering these and ending with your creams and oils is to lock the moisture in so you're not dry.
That makes sense.
So make sure that you have moisture to begin with.
Let's talk about a couple of the other ones that you should start slowly. Body product, Triple Treat, is a 25% treatment lotion for the body.
That's another one that needs to be started very slowly. As I suggested, two to three times per week, which is every other day, would be maximum.
And again, that is on the label. It lets them know.
It is on the label. Everything is on the back. We recommend applying one to five times per week as needed, as skin acclimates. Sensitive types can feel a tingle, so use equal parts of this with another lotion.
So again, how we're talking about diluting it a little bit, this is 25%. That could be too strong for somebody or particular areas of your body. So if you've got like a normal, regular drugstore lotion, do a pump of this, do a pump of that, mix it, and you might be able to apply it more often, but this needs to be eased into, and this is so, so good.
But, you know, I don't know that I can use this every day on, like, legs, feet, arms, elbows, stuff like that. But, you know, you might want, not want to use this every day on other central parts of your body, that might be…
Crease areas, I find that customers will say, you know, if they send a video or a picture…
or behind the knees.
Yes. And they do have irritation. Most times, it's in like the folded areas where maybe they applied a little bit too much. Yeah. So less is more again with that. What else do we have here?
One more is the copper.
Yeah.
And this can be, well, Super Cop 2X, so this is the strongest. We have CP serum, Super CP serum, and then Super Cop 2X, which is the most powerful.
Yes.
And then the GHK 7%, which is a liquid that mixes into other things. I don't find that one irritating. I think just about anybody can start using that every single day without issues.
Sure.
I feel like CP serum, too, can probably be used every day without issues. Maybe two or three drops at night, and put that on. But if you've like worked your way up to Super Cop 2X, or you're starting here for some reason, cause you're just using it in spots.
Yeah.
This can irritate. This, and it's not that it's, it's not acidic in any way. It's actually really high alkalinity.
But this one, you can put it on, and you feel fine when you first put it on. And I would say like somewhere between 15 and 30 minutes, it starts to feel itchy or tingly. I tell people to put this on immediately before going to bed. Hopefully, you will fall asleep before it starts getting tingly.
Or you could put a little bit of Emu oil on first to kind of slow the penetration down. So Emu oil on top, we'll push it in faster, harder. If you put Emu oil first, it creates a barrier to slow down the absorption.
And that was directly from Dr. Pickart. That's what he recommended. And that's why he carried Emu oil as well.
He was like, “Yes, put it on as a barrier first for more sensitive types. It's just not going to stop the penetration. It's going to slow the penetration down.”
You're going to have it on all night. It's going to penetrate fine. But this is another one to start. You know, I usually tell people two to three times a week.
Correct. And like you said, it's not necessarily for all over the face.
No, mostly spot treatment. I did get a customer call last week. For some reason, she purchased that copper for her daily copper.
Not knowing, she called and said, "Well, how would I use this?" This is a blue cream, you know? So we determined that she bought the strongest one. And of course, copper peptides are final sale.
So we determined that the best way for her to use her product was to add a tiny, pea-sized amount to her moisturizer, every other day to start. And then she was going to see how her skin reacted, and then go up to, you know, doing that little mixture every day.
That is perfect. That is the way to do it.
If you have something too strong, dilute it.
She was smart. She needed advice. So we took care of her. So that was good.
Yeah.
So just to recap, our final takeaways are to start slow and gradually. A patch test is always a good idea as well if you have super, super sensitive skin.
Or allergies.
Yes.
And a note on allergies. You know, like the lady who called, she used four days, and then she said, "I think I have an allergy." You would find an allergy within anywhere from like six hours to 24 hours. You know, it's not, it's not something that's generally going to kick in four days later. That was just irritation.
Yeah.
But you know, you're going to learn quickly. If you're prone to allergies and unsure of some ingredients, you can always do a test. And I would generally suggest a sensitive area on your face is, for example, your neck, under your ear. It gets a little bit more sensitive here.
Wash your face, put a little dab there, leave it on, you know, I would suggest leaving it on for at least a couple of hours if you can, or put it on, go to bed and then check it, you know, in 24 hours, make sure it's not red, irritated, itchy, anything like that. And if it's not, you should be fine.
Right.
And keep in mind, too, that anybody can get a new allergy at any time for any reason.
Yes.
We just don't know. You could use the same product for 20 years and then have an allergy. It doesn't mean there's something bad about the product. It's just something that happened, and it's just something that you don't tolerate well.
And if that's the case, you need to stop using that ingredient completely for a long, long time, many, many, many months. Then you could try to introduce it again and see how it goes.
Correct. And we always have to remember that our skin is our largest organ. So we must respect the process and go slow and steady.
Yeah. And there could be something going on elsewhere in your body, like what's processing in your liver and things like that. Maybe just something, perhaps something's amiss. Maybe, maybe you're sick and you just don't know it yet.
You know, there are a lot of ways your skin will tell you if something's wrong.
So slow is the way to go, right?
Slow is the way to go.
And the glow will come, right?
That's right.
All right. If you have any questions, feel free to give us a call at 1-800-917-3155.
Right.
Join us in our Facebook group, Platinum Skin Care Gurus.
Yeah.
And you can also email us at any time, support@platinumskincare.com.